Tiger Restaurant Arrives With a Roar

For a foodie like me—rich in the palate, not in the wallet—Tiger offers both inventive and traditional Japanese dishes at prices that left me roaring for more.

Located on swank Canon Drive in Beverly Hills, Tiger opened its doors in December 2009, replacing another sushi joint, Luckyfish. Based on the impressive offerings at Tiger, it's safe to say that both owner Luis Decasas and chef Jon Maza gained valuable experience at their former place of employment, the acclaimed Nobu chain.

Tiger's wooden exterior is distinctive on a street of sleek glass storefronts, evoking the authentic bamboo chopsticks I'm offered as I take my seat.

Diners who want to sit outdoors can choose from two sidewalk tables or one of the several cushy seats in the sky-lit patio room. Heaters are built into the ceiling and controlled electronically by the accommodating wait staff.

The patio leads to a main dining room and a black granite sushi bar, the center of the action. The vast menu includes the requisite sushi and sashimi as well as hot and cold dishes, tempura, and robatta for fish-wary friends.

The Seaweed Salad ($8)—varying shades of kelp dressed in a citrus-soy-sesame blend—was just large enough for two people.

The Hirame Tempura with Apple Aioli ($12) was four bite-sized whitefish nuggets, tender and creamy and encased in a crisp batter primed for the sweet dipping sauce.

The Octopus with Peruvian Glaze ($10) sounded interesting, but was so tough and overcooked that it was inedible. The server kindly apologized and offered to replace it with something else from the menu.

In its place came the Spicy Tuna Crispy Rice ($12)—a heap of fresh fish topped with a block of soy-crusted crispy rice. The tender tuna begged for more of a kick than a lone jalapeno sliver could muster.

I asked for a sushi roll recommendation and our server suggested the Seared Salmon and Avocado Roll ($12). The fish was fresh and the rice perfectly steamed and topped with a very lightly seared sliver of salmon, though it seemed a bit small in diameter for the price.

Be sure to leave room to sample the eclectic dessert menu. In addition to the typical mochi-encased ice cream, Tiger offers goat cheese donuts, tres leches and coconut crème brûlée. All desserts are priced at $8.

I opted for the Chocolate and Peanut Butter Soufflé, a moist, dark cake filled with warm peanut butter crème, served with vanilla bean ice cream.

There is also a wide variety of drink for those who want to imbibe while eating. Beers start at $5 a bottle and wine at $8 a glass. The house saki is inexpensive at $12 for a bottle, and all cocktails cost $6. A customer favorite is the white lotus cocktail with saki, soju, lychee, creme de coconut and passion fruit.

Tiger is still ironing out minor kinks, but it's an unpretentious spot to enjoy for a casual Japanese meal in the 90210.

Tiger is located at 340 N. Canon Dr. Open for Lunch, Monday-Saturday 12-3 p.m.; Dinner, Monday-Sunday 6-8 p.m. Telephone: 310-274-3200. Metered street parking or paid lot across the street.